Reflections: Our CHamoru heritage, cultural and environmental Challenges and the spirit of inafa’maolek
Robert F. Rogers' book "Destiny's Landfall" chronicles Guam's history since 1521, offering a compelling look into our island's journey. Despite Guam's size — barely an ink splotch on world maps — its discovery by three Spanish ships over 500 years ago set in motion a profound transformation.
While pre-discovery Guam remains a mystery, historians tirelessly piece together our CHamoru heritage through available documents. Our history is complex and layered, from Spanish colonization to American acquisition in 1898, a Japanese WWII occupation, and back to the U.S. administration. These sweeping changes have shaped not just Guam, but the entire Marianas Islands and Micronesia, influencing our identity and future in ways we're still trying to understand.
As I reflect on the Chamoru people and all who call Guam home today, I'm struck by the complexity of our story. Born in 1966 to parents who experienced Guam's liberation as four-year-olds in 1944, I grew up largely oblivious to our island's rich history. In my youth, I enjoyed the freedoms of American citizenship without fully appreciating the weight of our past.
Proud of both my CHamoru-Guamanian heritage and American identity, I left our island seeking adventure and personal growth. Ironically, I believed I couldn't truly grow if I stayed in Guam, surrounded by the ever-present support of family and friends. Yet, even as I ventured out, the spirit of inafa'maolek — be good to one another — followed me. This CHamoru value became my unexpected support system, a reminder that our cultural bonds stretch far beyond our shores.
The impact of "destiny's landfall" on CHamoru culture over the past 500 years is undeniable. Many argue that we're losing our identity, culture, beliefs, land and way of life. The toll on our population has been severe, from war and unfamiliar diseases to more recent health challenges like diabetes, obesity and lytico-bodig. These conditions seem to hit us harder, much like how our people serve in the U.S. military at higher rates per capita.
Our environment suffers alongside our health. The disappearance of native birds, often blamed on the brown tree snake, and the loss of native tree species are symptoms of a larger ecological crisis.
One of my vivid memories is of husking coconuts for my aunt's homemade candy. Now coconut trees stand as lifeless pillars, victims of the rhino beetle. It's a stark reminder of how quickly paradise can transform: an island without birds singing, without coconut trees, facing issues of land destruction and beach pollution.
Yet, amid these sobering changes, our culture still pulses with life, especially during holidays like Christmas. Returning home, I'm enveloped by familiar sounds of hymns like “Fanmatto' Manheñgge,” aromas of delicious foods like boñelos dågu, and Nobenan Niño and Tres Reyes traditions that have endured.
This year, as I decorated for Christmas, the lyrics “Pray for peace, people, everywhere” from "Do You Hear What I Hear" resonated deeply, making me reflect on the challenges facing not just Guam, but the entire world.
Over 500 years since the Spanish landfall, our culture survives, though changed. Our language, infused with Spanish words, still lives on, especially in the other Mariana Islands. Like many, I understand more than I can speak, and it saddens me to realize that in just three generations, our language has faded significantly in Guam and in myself.
I'm deeply grateful to those working tirelessly to preserve our heritage: leaders and teachers keeping our language alive, scientists reintroducing native species, environmentalists trying to protect our island's beauty, historians documenting our past, and artists expressing our culture through various mediums.
As I ponder Guam's future, I wonder: Are we at a crossroads? Have we already passed it? Did we choose the right direction? While I don't have the answers, I know that every aspect of our culture and island has been profoundly affected. I've come to realize how important cultural preservation truly is.
To the leaders of Guam, and to myself, I make this plea: Let us hold dear to our culture. Not just our language, but everything that embodies the spirit of Guam and the Marianas. The principle of inafa'maolek is a universal value that can enrich lives everywhere.
As we face the future, let us commit to defending and nurturing the unique beauty of our island, our culture, and our people. In doing so, we honor our past, enrich our present, and secure a vibrant future for generations.
James Espinosa is a native of Agana Heights and a lifelong son of Guam. He is a resident of Las Vegas.
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